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Vacheron Constantin responded with the Mercator, launched in 1994 to commemorate the 400th anniversary... 

Vacheron Constantin Mercator

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Rolex

Folding Clasp

The first Rolex with a second time zone was launched in 1954 under the reference Rolex GMT-Master 6542. This watch was developed in collaboration with the American airline Pan Am to meet the needs of pilots who crossed several time zones in a single trip.

Unveiled in 1981, the reference 16750 had a short production run of eight years, making it much rarer than the reference 1675, which was produced for 20 years. The distinctive feature of this reference is the quick date adjustment, an important function made possible by the introduction of the new caliber 3075. 

The term “transitional” used for this model comes from the significant variations in the dial that occurred throughout its production: matte to glossy dials.
The early versions, as seen here, have the same matte dial as the later 1675s, a black dial with tritium-painted hour markers and the text “Oyster Perpetual” under “Rolex.” 
Around 1984/85 and for a short period, a glossy dark black dial appeared with applied white gold hour markers and the text “Oyster Perpetual” under “Rolex.” 
Shortly thereafter, the same glossy dial featured the word “Date” in the text “Oyster Perpetual Date” under “Rolex,” as on modern versions of the GMT collection.

Matte dials were often replaced with glossy dials during servicing, making them all the more rare. 

Hours

Minutes

Seconds

Date

Découvrez notre Rolex GMT-Master 16750 disponible à notre showroom à Genève.

GMT Master

Automatic

Stainless steel

Steel

Audemars Piguet

The first Royal Oak ref. 5402, designed by the famous Gérald Genta, was introduced in 1972. When it was released, it surprised everyone with its unique design, its price tag higher than that of gold models, and its imposing size for the time of 39 mm, hence its nickname “Jumbo.”

The 15202, meanwhile, did not arrive until 2000, with its transparent case back revealing the caliber 2121. But it was not until 2012, for the model's 40th anniversary, that this reference took up the design of the iconic 5402, notably with the placement of the AP logo at 6 o'clock and the disappearance of the small minute track around the dial, as seen on the model we have here.

This 39 mm model is the Royal Oak designed for true purists. It features a minimalist design with a “petite tapisserie” pattern dial and only two hands and the date. On the wrist, its slim and elegant 8.1 profile makes it a watch with exceptional balance and perfect proportions. On the back, the sapphire case back reveals the movement and its finely decorated rotor.

Created in 1970, the caliber 2121 is a derivative of the caliber 2120 (1967) and was for many years the world's thinnest self-winding mechanical movement with a central rotor and date display. It also has a power reserve of approximately 40 hours.

The watch comes with its box, outer box, original warranty card from 2015, manual, and Audemars Piguet service invoice from 2021.

Discover this Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST available at our showroom in Geneva.

Royal Oak

Outer box

Certificate of origin

Manual

Service invoice

In 2003, to mark the 50th anniversary of the Submariner, Rolex introduced the reference 16610LV, nicknamed “Kermit.” For the first time in the model's history, the bezel was available in green, the brand's iconic color. This anniversary version retained the classic Submariner Date case, while adding a strong and immediately recognizable visual identity.

The first generation, produced at the very beginning of the series, is now known to collectors as the “Flat Four.” This name refers to the specific typography of the number 4 on the bezel insert, whose upper bar is flat, unlike later versions. This subtle detail, combined with a “Maxi” dial with large hour markers and hands, gives these early models a particularly sought-after status.

All variations of the Kermit are listed in our article available [here](https://www.41watch.com/en/journal/buyers-guides/the-rolex-submariner-kermit-exploring-the-16610lv-and-its-variations).

Equipped with the caliber 3135, first introduced in the late 1980s, this movement, which has a 48-hour power reserve, is widely considered one of the best and most reliable mechanical movements for everyday use.

The watch comes with its box, outer box, certificate of origin, manuals, and card holder.

Black

Discover this Rolex Submariner 16610LV Kermit Flat Four available at our showroom in Geneva.

Submariner

The Rolex Cosmograph was launched in 1963 for racing drivers, and the “Daytona” signature appeared a year later when Rolex became a sponsor of the 24 Hours of Daytona race in Daytona Beach, Florida. 

As for the model presented here, the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 16520 was launched in **1988**, completely redesigned from its predecessor with a larger 40 mm case and a sapphire crystal that increased its water resistance to **100** meters. At that time, it became Rolex's first automatic chronograph with the caliber 4030. It is interesting to note that the automatic movement does not come from Rolex but is based on Zenith's famous El Primero caliber, originally designed in 1969 after a race between several manufacturers to design the very first automatic chronograph movement. Rolex modified the movement to, among other things, increase the power reserve and lower the frequency.

This particular example belongs to the “**A series**” from **1999** and features a **Luminova** dial, which is consistent with the late production of this reference. 

To top it all off, this watch comes in NOS (New Old Stock) condition with a **complete** set including its box, outer box, original Rolex warranty, warranty manual, manual, card holder, and tags.

Small second

Chronograph

Discover this superb Rolex Daytona Zenith 16520 NOS full set from 2000 with a white luminova dial, available at our showroom in Geneva.

Daytona

Original papers

Pin buckle

Launched in 1956, the Day-Date was the first watch to display both the day and date through an opening in the dial. Rolex has never shied away from being associated with influential figures, including a number of presidents, which is how this model earned its nickname.

With a diameter of 36mm, the reference 1803 was produced from the early 1960s to 1977. It is the first generation of Day-Date watches to have been in production for over 15 years. The main feature of this model is its domed “pie-pan” dial and domed plexiglass crystal. This brown dial, nicknamed “Ghost Cappuccino” or “Ghost Caramel,” is particularly rare because the inscriptions on it disappear depending on the angle of the light.

The Rolex caliber 1555 has a power reserve of approximately 42 hours and is not equipped with the quick date setting system on the crown, a feature that appeared with the following reference 18038 and caliber 3055.

Brown

Discover this Rolex Day-Date 1803/8 with a brown ghost dial, available at our showroom in Geneva.

Day Date

Leather

Yellow Gold

Patek Philippe

Introduced in 1968, the Ellipse's design is no accident, as it is based on the golden ratio, considered the “divine proportion” found in nature and in the greatest architectural and artistic works. 

Originally manufactured by dial maker Singer for Patek Philippe, the bronze-colored dial varies depending on the light and features a sunburst finish. This color blends perfectly with the rose gold of the case, creating a contrast that is both extremely simple and striking.

Throughout production, four types of dials have been used. We have written a comprehensive article that you can read [here](https://www.41watch.com/journal/historical-reviews-of-iconic-watches/technical-review-of-the-patek-philippe-ellipse).

Our model is equipped with an MK4 dial, recognizable by its domed hour markers and hands and the word “Swiss” visible on the dial at 6 o'clock. 

This version of the Ellipse, known as the “Jumbo,” is equipped with a self-winding mechanical movement with a micro-rotor, the caliber 240, which made its debut in this model (reference 3738) in 1977, nine years after the collection was launched.

This is the first generation of self-winding watches to feature the legendary micro-rotor caliber 240. A true feat of watchmaking, this in-house caliber allows the case to remain exceptionally slim while providing a power reserve of approximately 45 hours.

The watch comes with its Patek Philippe archive extract (to follow).

Discover this superb Patek Philippe Ellipse 3738/100 available at our showroom in Geneva.

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Vacheron Constantin Mercator

Our Complete Collection

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Vacheron Constantin Mercator

Our Complete Collection

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Wrist Impression - MB&F LM101

History - F.P. Journe Chronometre a Resonance

"First wrist impression" articles